Outback ghost town rises from the ashes, one loaf at a time

Forget coastal hotspots and inner-city apartments. The next property frontier might just be…a ghost town.

In Farina, South Australia – around 600km north of Adelaide – a remarkable underground bakery is defying expectations, drawing thousands of tourists and injecting new life into a community left for dead.

But is this delicious revival a one-off novelty, or could it be the key to unlocking the untapped potential of Australia’s forgotten rural landscapes?

I went to Farina to investigate.

A delicious anomaly in the desert

The drive to Farina is a stark reminder of the challenges facing rural Australia. Empty roads stretch for miles, leading to a cluster of crumbling stone buildings that whisper of a bygone era.

Yet, as you approach, a surprising aroma fills the air – the unmistakeable scent of freshly baked bread wafting from Farina Underground Bakery, a culinary oasis that’s become a beacon of hope in the desert.

Descending into the cool depths of the bakery, I found more than just delicious food. I found a slice of history dating back 137 years, when the bakery served around 100 residents across 30 homes.

The heart of the bakery, no bigger than a small bed chamber, is a Scotch oven. These were widely used in the early days of settlement in Australia, and few working examples remain today.

By 1893, the town’s population had grown to 300 – eventually reaching 600 – with residents linked to the railway or supporting those who did.

The town boasted two hotels, a school, a church, two breweries and – of course – a fully operational bakery. It supplied fresh bread to residents until the early 1940s, after which it fell into disuse and was used as a butcher’s cool store for some years.

Today, the bakery is back in working order, thanks to a dedicated group of volunteers who reworked the oven and interior in 2010. Baking recommenced after approximately 80 years of disuse.

A magnet for tourists (and dreamers)

For the last 15 years, Farina’s underground bakery has become a magnet, drawing over 12,000 tourists from across Australia and beyond between June and July. These are the only two months when dedicated volunteers fire up the oven.

At the same time, a small army of volunteers from across Australia comes to help with other tasks, with up to 50 people at a time working to restore parts of the town.

Every cent raised goes back into restoration efforts.

While it is unknown exactly how much money is raised each year, one media report suggests annual profits in excess of $50,000. It’s certainly needed, with much of the town still in ruins.

As for the baked goods, they are so mouth-watering that dropping a $50 note or two comes easy.

From pies and sausage rolls to white, seeded and rye bread, plus apple pies, vanilla slices and choc chip cookies – a trip to Farina is certainly worthwhile.

And while far from civilisation, Farina Campground offers plenty of room to roll out a swag and watch the sun set from Anzac Hill.

The property question: Can Farina’s success be replicated?

But the big question remains: can Farina’s success be replicated in other struggling rural communities?

Could this unique tourism model spark a wider outback property boom?

While the town itself remains largely unrestored, the influx of visitors is undeniably injecting life back into the region.

The key to Farina’s success lies in its sustainable model.

Every dollar spent at the bakery is reinvested directly into the restoration and maintenance of the historic township.

This not only ensures the preservation of Farina’s heritage but also creates a unique and compelling drawcard for tourists.

It’s a model that offers a glimmer of hope for other ghost towns scattered across the Australian outback.

The future of Farina (and rural property?)

While Farina may never return to its former glory, its revival offers a valuable lesson: with creativity, community spirit, and a sustainable tourism model, even the most desolate places can be brought back to life.

And who knows, perhaps one day, we’ll see a renewed interest in outback property, driven by the same passion and ingenuity that’s transforming Farina, one delicious pie at a time.

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